mx5trackdayproject.co.uk

Category: Exterior

  • New Bracing Goes In

    New Bracing Goes In

    In this post

    My MX5 NC already has some chassis bracing both on the front struts (see the images in my previous posts)and on the chasis rails underneath the car (see below), in this post new upgraded bracing goes it to try an improve already excellent handling.

    The why of it

    From the start the aim has been to create a grand touring track day car and in my post on the new BC Racing Coilovers, I mentioned that the car had acquired a kick when changing gear under load and whilst this was not a track day problem it was a put off when driving on the street.

    The forums suggest that this can be chasis kick caused by the relative softness of the previous suspension no longer soaking up the chasis twist from the rotation of driveline.

    It may also be a contributing factor that I Polybushed the rear suspension and the diff bushes where replaced with even harder poly bushes.

    Sites like Flying Miata suggest that it is difficult to overdo chasis rigidity and forums have suggested improved feel in the driving experience.

    For all these reasons and because they are hidden underneath the car I pushed the go button the IL Motorsport X-Brace and Rear Suspension Lower Brace as a first step in bolstering chassis rigidity.

    Why IL Motorsport?

    Only because I liked the look of the parts (they’re red) and in comparison to others they seemed pretty good value. I didn’t buy the full kit because I’d heard that the OEM front suspension tower brace is pretty good anyway and doesn’t really need replacing and the OE front bar (before the X brace) could be upgraded later as it is still pretty substantial.

    Instalation

    So you need to have confidence that the suspension won’t collapse when you start loosening bolts, and you’ll need to take a moment to search google for the installation instructions which didn’t arrive in the box and then a further moment to get your head around the instructions before you start any of this.

    I lacked the confidence to pull the bolts without chocking the subframe but it was either overkill or additional body stabilisation for the whole operation.

    I found that you need to pull the bolts out first, then instal from the back forward as the suspension brace sits under the cross brace. The hex bolts supplied replace the originals from the cross brace (I wasted 10 mins trying to work out why the wouldn’t bite on the suspension bars).

    The instructions also give torque settings for all the bolts, but these are pretty low. I triple checked them all with a torque wrench.

    Impressions

    They are both light and strong, the OEM x-brace could be flexed with my hands but the new one could not. Once I worked out what went where and how, it all went on pretty easily.

    As the rear module sits on top of the existing subframe rails it does hang down below the chassis and lower suspension arms rails a little (~1 – 1.5cm), the X brace less so as it is a replacement for the original. So if you have clearance issues you’ll need to work around these when driving over an obstacle or like me when pulling off the drive.

    It does not seem to foul the BBR exhaust that I can see, but it gets a thorough shake-down test next week at Thruxton.

    How the mod affects handling is something I’ll find out next week when I’m back on track.

  • Rain-Ready Now

    Rain-Ready Now

    After the biblically wet track days at Silverstone and Thruxton recently, I decided to take the hint and get a rain light. Of course it’s not as simple as, “Lets buy a rain light”, you then need to navigate the options.

    Choice 1: I decided that I wanted an FIA approved one so that it was of a modern standard and not just something cheap which may or may be of use. So I bought something that was compliant with the FIA’s 2019 reg’s (yes I know I’m not competing – but being compliant with current race regs reassures me it will be track relevant).

    Choice 2: Round or Rectangular? I opted for rectangular merely as I liked the link of it more.

    Choice 3: Flashing or Constant? I read that flashing rain lights are easier to see than constantly illuminated ones when you are following from behind. In my Silverstone Post I talk about cars passing and nothing being visible behind the cars but grey water; so anything to improve my on-track safety drove me towards a flashing rain light.

    Choice 4: Flashing, Flashing and Brake Light or choice of Flashing with constant via switch; I chose to wire it as brake Light repeater with a switch operated flashing function. Obviously I don’t need to be completion class rules compliant which would have limited my options .

    £150+ later I was the proud owner of the CarTek 8874-2019 Rectangular Model Rain Light.

    FIA Flashing Rain Light from CarTek

    Instalation

    The three wires were expended with soldered wires and heat shrink and then I extended the heat shrink to to a length that takes the protection well under the car.

    As I was rooting around in the boot I noticed a large rubber grommet which gave me an entry point for the wires. Once the wires were brought up into the boot I found an earth point near the rear lights and then tapped the red wire into the brake light loom. The final blue wire which is the feed for the flashing function was fed through behind the seats and into the cabin under the centre console and the onto the designated switch.

    I’ve removed the panel below the radio which usually houses the lighter, aux audio input point and heated seat switches a while ago and eBayed the same panel from a lower spec NC and installed the illuminated switches for this unit and the intercom.

    As the switch is illuminated I ran a power feed off an auxiliary fuse box to the switch and ran an earth to an earthing point under the centre console.

    So there it is, I now have an additional brake light repeater and when required I can run a flashing rain light on track days.

    Another option would have been to rig the rain light so that the flashing function requires the headlights and rear lights to be on. I’ll think about it but and the implications for the future.

    First Impressions

    It was easy to instal, it’s bright and it works. I like it.

    Ironically there’s a yellow warning for heat out at the moment and no rain forecast for some time. Probably just in time for when I return to Thruxton next month.

  • Heads-up: BC Racing DS Shocks

    Decision made, have ordered some BC Racing DS Coilovers.

    Deep joy.

    TBC

  • Foggy Headlights – Cured

    Foggy Headlights – Cured

    I love it when the plan comes together, I’ve been meaning to sort out the foggy headlamps on the car caused by the plastic being aged by UV over time and have been watching YouTube videos about re-polishing headlights that are going cloudy; something you see on MX-5’s a lot.

    Usually they show a wet sanding method moving up through the grades of paper to the finer ones. In one video I watched the lad spoke about his dad just going straight for some T cut. In my head I combined this with another one in which the presenter pointed out you can buy headlamp polishing kits for this sort of thing.

    This got me thinking about what if I bought a rotary polishing sheepskin wheel for my drill and used the T-cut I already had for polishing would this work?? Well yes it does.

    So my method was to apply the polish to the sheepskin wheel and then went at it with the slower speed setting with the drill. I followed the shape of the lamp, concentrating on the milkiest areas and also did some rotary patterns to mix he polishing actions up.

    I reloaded the pad with polish after one song on Planet Rock with associated DJ chat and then repeated the process for a similar amount of time.

    To be honest as the T-Cut starts to dry while you are polishing you can see if you are making progress.

    1) Foggy Headlight – not yet an MoT fail.
    2) T-Cut to Polish Light
    3) Drill with polishing wheel and sheepskin
    4) Result after two five minute sessions

    Now follow-up is more tricky as you need to coat the lens with something to protect it from UV going forward and I have some headlamp film to do that which I’ll fit next time. I

    I’m very happy with the result.

  • New Towing Eye

    New Towing Eye

    I’ve always been concerned that the OEM towing eye was a hazard for pedestrians when I was not on track and also that removing it left access for water and created a rust trap – as with the rear one that I had to replace as it was corroded badly.

    So I decided to replace it with this one from Jass Performance. It screws straight in and looks better than the old one. £38 well spent.

    Im booked in now for Silverstone GP Circuit and Thruxton, so on with prepping the car.

    Dilema

    I’ve managed to break on of my keys when it literally fell apart on me and I’ve no transponder for a replacement.

    The question is whether to risk it or get another key. Apparently I need two working keys to programme a third.

    TBC

  • Nice new windscreen fitted, next the MoT

    So it’s been raining (again) and is therefore the perfect day for Autoglass to come and change the windscreen. I’d noticed a crack in the screen when I was fixing the water leak and it seemed long enough to cause concern about my upcoming MoT so it needed sorting out.

    The process was painless enough, book it in for a date, confirm and find its a different date to the one you wanted so change it and get something more convenient.

    They ping you by text to say they’ll be there sometime on the day you want then nearer the time they give you updates to say they are on their way.

    The lad who fitted it was friendly and got on with it under the really impressive awning/cover mounted on the roof of their van.

    Anyway it’s done, the screen looks beautiful and much cleaner than the old one. The instructions were something like don’t drive it for half an hour, don’t wash it for 24 hours, don’t worry about the rain that’s ok.

    Next up I’m going to book the MoT and then cross my fingers in the hope that I can then get the season underway and get it filthy again.

  • Number Plate Light Upgrade

    Number Plate Light Upgrade

    So there’s the little matter of an MoT test to prepare for. The number plate bulbs have always been an issue for me and the ones in the MX5 have been temperamental since I got it. So I decided to fit LED ones in the hope of adding reliability.

    Again they were bought from MX5 Parts, arrived promptly and were pretty simple to install, with just a simple slide to one side to remove the old units.

    popped the old unit out
    the buld housing connected
    view of old unit from behind
    the old plastic light holder
    old unit and new unit attached you can see difference in brightness
    Here you see the brightness comparison
    New units in place. That rust is playing on my mind
    Job done

    Fitted they worked immediately and without fuss. They seem much brighter than the the bulbs they replace. Time will tell about reliability but so far so good.

    Now that it’s completed I’m happy with the product, but that rust on the boot is a worry.

    I could treat it, but in truth I’m starting to think about,”… simplify and add lightness”, once the MoT is over.

  • Side Repeater Replacement – Dark & Moody

    Side Repeater Replacement – Dark & Moody

    Having made the Mazda weatherproof once again, I decided to replace the side indictors from white to something more dark and moody to match my track day wheels.

    It’s not a difficult swap, basically you slide out the old units plug the new one into the bulb holder and re-insert the unit into the hole. It’s advisable to grip the old wires to stop them falling to the body cavity (I used a peg).

    If like me you fail to recognise the simplicity of the design and remove the bulb holder and trim the contacts, then when your asleep that night you will wake up in the wee small hours and realise your error fails to make the unit waterproof and you will need to go back and fit the bulb holder which has a rubber grommet to stop the water getting in.

    Anyway its done and I like the look.

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